Santiago - Si!
OK. The best, most helpful and useful thing I can tell you about Santiago is that Avenida Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins is ALSO called 'Alameda'by absolutely everyone, except lost tourists. This little
nugget wasn't on any map I had, nor was it mentioned in the Bradt Travel Guide, which would have been enormously helpful, at least initially! Everybody was telling me about this Alameda place, and I couldn't find the bloomin' thing.... I really impressed the policeman by asking where it was, when I was standing on it! Oy veh!
That said:
Ladies, you going to LOVE Santiago! A cosmetic paradise (more about that later), plus great shopping. Santiago is a fun, relaxed, easy-going polite city with music, good restaurants, and dancing in the streets. And those handsome Latin men still whistle at 50-something women. You gotta love it!
After the 'high' of Easter Island, I wasn't expecting much from Santiago. I considered not going at all. Well, I would have missed a great time! Santiago is wonderful.
I stayed at La Chimba Hostel (www.lachimba.com), in a party part of Santiago called Bellavista. Lots of restaurants, bars, shops and easy walking to the city center. And LOTS of noise on Friday and Saturday nights! It's a nice hostel, but I wouldn't stay there again, at least over a weekend. Loud music - even with earplugs - went on till nearly 5 am. However, there are lots of wide side streets in the area which could be good for parking up the rest of the week, and it seems safe.
And Bellavista is close to something you MUST do if you come into Santiago, which is to take the funicular up Cerro San Cristobal. There is also a gondola, with stops along the way for a Japanese Garden, the zoo, Botanical gardens, but the best reason to go up is for sunset! I suppose because of the air pollution, the air vibrates with the brightest reds, pinks and mauves as the sun descends. And just when you think the colors can't get more intense, they do! And the snowy Andes are surrounding you, floating in pale blue. It's magic.
The cultural high point is the Museo Chileno De Arte Precolombino (10-6 Mon-Sat, 10-2 Sun, 2000 pesos). Five thousand years of sophisticated ceramics, stone-carving, textiles, gold and wood, some from obscure cultures forever lost. Just now there is a fabulous temporary exhibit of an intricately woven textile, a ceremonial costume, the likes of which I have never seen. The curators have displayed it in an area which re-creates in fabric the walls of an
archeological site! Nicely done. There is also extensive information about the conservation techniques of this rare and unusual fabric, and it is shown in the varying light of a 24hour day to show the nuances of the weaving. Extraordinary.
This museum is just off the Plaza de Armas, the heart of the city. It has the requisite cathedral, lots of benches for great people-watching (I saw some Indians in traditional clothing), big shady trees, chess players, music in the bandstand in the evenings,
street performers - stilt walkers, fire eaters - all the great fun things.
Also off of this square are the big pedestrian shopping streets! Clothes or shoes a bit worn? Great stylish things, a snip of the European prices, although higher than in Argentina according to
Maureen. Still very good value.
And if you're hungry from museuming or shopping, read on! Go to Gelateria Italiano Bombolo on Ahumeda, one of those big pedestrian streets. There are lots of ice cream places, but I selflessly checked them all out for you, and this one is the best, and the best value.
For 1200 pesos (about 2.50 US) you get 3 massive scoops, plenty for lunch. They have loads of flavors, and willingly give samples. You pay first, after carefully considering all the options, then go order.Don't miss Bombolo!
Another especially enjoyable visit was to the Bibliotec National on Alameda. I was just walking by and decided on impulse to go in this beautiful Belle epoque building. Be sure to look in the doors down the hallways on the first floor to see the splendid woodwork. And there is a real treasure! There's a lovely cafe, open for lunch, in the center of the building. Quiet, elegant surroundings, cozy and
comfortable, not expensive, I saw no hint of it advertised on the outside. There was also a very good photography exhibit of people of the BioBio area.
Across the street from the bibliotec & up a bit towards the city center from the is a souvenir market, with nice lapis lazuli jewelry and just about every other souvenir one might want. I was all over the city, the prices were good here, and you can bargain a bit. Lapis is mined in Chile. Afghanistan and Chile. Who knew??
Just stroll this city, and remember to look up now & then. Santiago gives many archtectural pleasures.
Ladies, are your cuticles dry? Hair need a shape-up? This is heaven! There are whole malls full of manicurists, hairdressers, pedicurists, facialists, waxers, and it is all a bargain. I had a handful of change (about 3.50 US) I wanted to get rid off, so, as
one does... I got my legs waxed! It didn't hurt, took 10 minutes max, and the lady was jolly and great fun. She seemed to find something amusing about the hair on American legs.... Must be different from Chilean hair! The best place is in a big building called 'Edificio Plaza de Armas'just a bit out from the plaza on Merced, as you face Cerro San Cristobal. It's filled with small shops, vying for your business, with the best prices.
The Museo Colonial de San Francisco on Alameda (near the church of the same name with its rough stone walls contrasting oddly with the elegant wooden European style ceiling) offers a leafy respite from the hot bustling city. Its untidy courtyard is a delightful little jungle of trees and shrubs. Not much to see in the museum, but a lovely, restful, sort of quiet place to get away from the crowded streets for a bit.
To sum up, one can have lots of fun, and find many interesting things to do in Santiago. I highly recommend it for a few days. If you need anything, or have any problems, there is a travel agent named Amaranta. Cell phone is 56-892.005.41 and home is 56-2-861.4072. Tell her you are a friend of a friend of Odette Zero.
PCW
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