HUNTERS TRACK DOWN PAT
..and on the 3rd day, I am found.
Monday, 20 Feb. As Bigfoot turns the corner onto Plaza Prat in Castro, on the island of Chiloe' off the coast of Chile, Carl & Mary see a familiar yellow/orange fleece jumping up and down, waving waving waving. Pat doesn't want to be missed.
And as to how I got there: A non-eventful flight from Zurich late on the 17th to Barcelona. However, in Barcelona, my onward flight number is not listed on the departure board. A bit worrying, that... Turns out from Barcelona there is an extra flight to Madrid at midnight, with yet another change. Nothing about that on my E-ticket! Oh welly. Never mind. Just get me to Santiago.
Dinner and two movies later, I wake up to find our flight path is right down the spine of the Andes! As far as I can see with my nose squished up against the cold airline glass, in both directions, are parallel ridges of jagged, ragged peaks, reaching up to scratch the bright blue - bellied sky. Some of those peaks are shimmering, glimmering white white icy sheets, reflecting the sun so brightly that at the right angle it can blind me for a second. Earlier, as the sun rose, instead of the green flash there was a rose flash, a brush of rosy watercolor, washing those ridges with pink. It was so fast. Did I really see it, or dream it?
Arrival at Santiago was fast & efficient, and after extracting their 'Reciprocity Fee' of 100 US, I was able to walk right on a southbound flight to Puerto Montt. (Just before leaving Switzerland I'd heard from Les that that was where I should head to) Arrival in Puerto Montt, a bus to the town center, a hotel with internet. Happily, in the morning I find another email from Les - "continue south to Chaiten' ". Search for ferry to Chaiten' finds nothing on Sunday, as does the bus search. But on the map, the town of Castro, on the isle of Chiloe', looks a likely place to get a ferry to Chaiten´. There's a bus to Castro in 5 minutes, I'm on it.
In the meantime, I've left a message for Carl and Mary, the others are out of range. C & M text back, they will meet me tomorrow morning in Castro in front of the UNESCO church on Plaza Prat at 10.30. Bless you, Carl & Mary!! So happy at the thought, will 10:30 EVER arrive??
It does, of course, and we have a WONDERFUL reunion. They come back to my hotel for good hot showers, then we have a look at the waterfront, the palafitos, the market, and have some fish soup. We head out of town & have a lovely wild camp near the water at Dalcahue, where the next day we take a ferry to the small island of Quinchau (be forewarned, you must either back on or off this small ferry!) We have a great view over the water for lunch, see some interesting wooden buildings, and then return to Chiloe' by ferry and head south to Quellon. Overnight overlooking the harbour, then the Hunters will leave for warmer, dryer climes north, and I will wait for the arrival of Kon-Tiki, Womble & OJ tomorrow. A joyous thought! Carl & Mary, thank you so so much for helping to make this happen and your extraordinary kindness and generosity. You both are truly fine people, and you have my heartfelt gratitude for your friendship.
To be continued after meeting with with the rest.
For those of you reading this website and wondering who the heck this writer is, I was a whole-hearted and enthusiastic member of China 2002 and Siberia/Mongolia 2004. I have returned to visit cherished friends, and to find the comfort that comes from connecting with those with whom one has shared intense, important times. Such a very small group of people in the world know exactly what I mean when I say "Remember that time on the KKH...in Samarkand...in Ulan Baator.. in Shanghai... " and on and on, endlessly, really. They are forever special.
Patricia Cashman Warburton
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